Hyderabadi Goat Mughlai Biryani

Name: Hyderabadi Goat Mughlai Biryani
Prep time: 50 min
Cook time: 1 h 20 min
Total time: 2 h 10 min
Yield: 6 servings
Cuisine: Indian, Hyderabad
Ingredients: 1 kg Young goat (kid), bone-in, from leg and shoulder, in large pieces; 1 ½ cups Thick yogurt; 2 tbsp Ginger-garlic paste; 1 tbsp Raw papaya paste; 2 tsp Kashmiri red chilli powder; ½ tsp Turmeric; 2 tsp Hyderabadi biryani masala or garam masala; ¼ tsp Mace and nutmeg, ground; 3 tbsp Cashews and almonds, ground to a paste with a little water; 75 g Khoya (mawa), crumbled; 6 Green chillies, slit; 1 cup Mint leaves; ½ cup Coriander leaves; 2 tbsp Lemon juice; 2 tsp Salt; 4 Large onions, thinly sliced; ¾ cup Oil, for frying; 3 cups Aged basmati rice; 2 Bay leaves; 6 Green cardamom pods; 6 Cloves; 2 inch Cinnamon stick; 1 ½ tsp Shahi jeera; 3 tbsp Salt, for the water; 5 tbsp Ghee; ½ tsp Saffron strands; ⅓ cup Warm milk; 3 tbsp Fresh cream; 1 tsp Kewra water; 1 tsp Rose water

The royal kacchi biryani of the Nizams: raw goat marinated overnight with khoya, nut paste and birista, sealed under three stages of saffron rice and slow-cooked until meltingly tender.

Prep 50 min · Cook 80 min · Total 130 min + overnight marinade · Serves 6

Ingredients

Marinade

1 kg Young goat (kid), bone-in, from leg and shoulder, in large pieces
1 ½ cups Thick yogurt
2 tbsp Ginger-garlic paste
1 tbsp Raw papaya paste
2 tsp Kashmiri red chilli powder
½ tsp Turmeric
2 tsp Hyderabadi biryani masala or garam masala
¼ tsp Mace and nutmeg, ground
3 tbsp Cashews and almonds, ground to a paste with a little water
75 g Khoya (mawa), crumbled
6 Green chillies, slit
1 cup Mint leaves
½ cup Coriander leaves
2 tbsp Lemon juice
2 tsp Salt

Birista

4 Large onions, thinly sliced
¾ cup Oil, for frying

Rice

3 cups Aged basmati rice
2 Bay leaves
6 Green cardamom pods
6 Cloves
2 inch Cinnamon stick
1 ½ tsp Shahi jeera
3 tbsp Salt, for the water

Finishing

5 tbsp Ghee
½ tsp Saffron strands
⅓ cup Warm milk
3 tbsp Fresh cream
1 tsp Kewra water
1 tsp Rose water
2 tbsp Almonds, slivered and fried
1 cup Atta, for the dough seal

Method

Fry the birista. Fry the onions in the oil over medium heat until deep golden brown, 18 to 20 minutes. Drain and keep the oil.
Marinate overnight. Mix the goat with every marinade ingredient, three-quarters of the birista crushed in your hand, and 4 tbsp of the frying oil. Massage well, cover and chill overnight, or for at least 6 hours. Bring back to room temperature for 30 minutes before cooking.
Spread the meat. Pour 2 tbsp ghee into a wide, heavy-based handi or pot and spread the meat and all its marinade in an even layer.
Par-boil the rice in stages. Bring 4 litres of water to a rolling boil with the whole spices and salt and add the drained rice. At 2 minutes (30% done), lift out a third with a slotted spoon and spread it over the meat. At 4 minutes (50%), add the next third. At 6 minutes (70%), drain the rest and spread it on top.
Finish and seal. Drizzle with the saffron milk, cream, remaining ghee, kewra and rose water. Scatter the last of the birista and the fried almonds. Seal the lid with a rope of soft atta dough.
Cook on dum. Cook on high for 10 minutes until you hear a strong sizzle and see steam pushing at the seal. Lower to medium for 5 minutes, then set the handi on a hot tawa over the lowest flame for 45 minutes.
Rest and serve. Rest 15 minutes before breaking the seal. Dig straight down to the bottom with a flat spoon so each plate gets meat, the thick masala and saffron rice. Serve with mirchi ka salan, dahi chutney and double ka meetha.

Tips

Kacchi biryani only works with tender young goat and a heavy pot; ask your butcher for kid meat. If you are unsure, check one piece after 45 minutes on dum through a small gap in the seal and give it 10 to 15 minutes more if needed.